After 5 trips to Hedo, we were ready for more, but this year we had a different plan. Both of us wanted more Hedo, but I also wanted more Jamaica. I had wanted more Jamaica since our first trip, but this year a friend who is an experienced and frequent traveler asked to join us. She plays in my flute ensemble, and for the last 5 years my fellow flutists have been aware of my trips to Jamaica Kevin and I got married there on our first trip, and I invited the flute ensemble to our wedding celebration party afterwards in my aunt and uncles backyard in the U.S. I played reggae music and frantically mixed up Mudslides, Purple Rains, and Hummingbirds, while my Aunt Martha and Uncle John cooked up some fine jerk chicken. In subsequent trips I brought back presents (RUM) to my fellow flutists, and regaled them with censored tales of the tropics.
Ummmm, I said when my friend first mentioned her desire to join us. Theres something I have to tell you about the place we stay I came right out with it and told her we were NAKED in Jamaica, along with many others. She said it wouldnt be a problem, that it would be something she could tell her grandson. Oh yeah.
I gave her a copy of Chriss wonderful book. A couple of weeks later, I asked if shed read it. I was curious, because I hadnt heard any retractions of her travel plans. She said she hadnt had time to look at it. A couple of weeks later she said we have to talk. She read just a few pages, and freaked out. That should have been my clue. I feel bad now for not realizing that was a reaction that showed her true potential enjoyment of Hedo. I wanted her to like Hedo because I love Hedo, and I thought she was such an experienced traveler I was sure she could adapt. I told her she would be fine if she stayed on the prude side. I hang out on the prude side sometimes because the music is better (not this year I dont find a beach very relaxing when techno is playing). And we both love snorkeling, so I thought the watersports alone would make up for any wanton nakedness she might inadvertently view.
One reason she wanted to come is because I had been telling her how much I wanted to see the rest of Jamaica, and I will be forever grateful to her for coming along and making that possible. What we did is book an adventure travel guide to take us around the island for 3 days. Kevin did not want to come with us, because he loves Hedo too much to go anywhere else! We had a letter for 2 free nights from last year (for the inconvenience of getting bumped to Grand Lido with an oceanfront room), so it seemed like a good time to do this.
When we called our travel agent, it was interesting. I explained that we were all flying from Denver to Montego Bay at the same time, but that Kevin would be boarding the bus to Hedo, and my friend and I would be meeting a guide to whisk us away to Port Antonio and the Blue Mountains. The woman we talked to (not one of the agents, but they were busy so she was helping us) was saying out loud so, you are going off the resort when one of the agents grabbed the phone from her and told me we were taking our lives into our hands by venturing off the resort. I told him we had a guide, but he didnt think that was sufficient enough to keep us from meeting an untimely end. Eventually we got our trip booked despite his fears. (P.S. we love our travel agent, so no disrespect is intended!)
We arrived in MoBay, and went through customs. My friend had convinced me on the flight that if I didnt declare my school supplies that they would find them anyway and throw me into prison. Having had no sleep (our flight was at 12:40 am and I worked the previous day) and some complimentary champagne, I took her advice and told the customs agent I had some recorders, music books and backpacks in my luggage.
A very interesting scene ensued customs agents pawed through my luggage, almost encountering my very naughty PJ outfit and accessories (thankfully packed at the bottom, well below the recorders), and then gathered and looked through a very large rules book trying to decide if plastic recorders counted as musical instruments. They argued, they shouted, they flipped furiously through the rule book, and then I was issued a piece of paper and told to go over to the window to pay my duty. I looked at the paper and was dismayed I am familiar with the exchange rate, and it was about $25 U.S. (for 12 recorders, 12 recorder books, and 2 backpacks filled with school supplies).
When I got to the window, the customs agent looked at the sheet, went and talked to somebody else, and then said I owed her 50 cents U.S.
Meanwhile, Kevin wanted to get on the Zoo Bus, and our guide was waiting outside for us. Yes, I did learn something. But despite the delay, it was an interesting look at Jamaican bureaucracy.
Our guide turned out to be just as delightful as she sounded in her emails she gave us great stories about Rose Hall and other historic sites we passed on the way to Port Antonio. She has a very comfortable, air conditioned van, and seemingly unlimited energy. And shes a great photographer, and for a small extra fee she will give you a CD full of photos she takes of you in some incredibly beautiful surroundings! I highly recommend her, and if you email me Ill fill you in on the details.
The trip from Montego Bay to Port Antonio was so fascinating I didnt even feel sleepy. I had tried to sleep on the plane, but the position I was wedged into didnt lend itself well to sleep. We made several stops for photos, and had an excellent lunch at an Indian restaurant in Ocho Rios.
Every year Ive been to Hedo I found a Wassi Art mug at a gift shop in Negril. So I asked if we could stop at the Wassi Art cooperative after lunch unfortunately they were closed since it was Good Friday. Easter week is quite a holiday in Jamaica.
As we continued to Port Antonio, Carolyn kept us enthralled with tales of Jamaican history and culture as we saw sights I had read about in the travel books. Its much better to see them in person!
We stayed that night at Moon San Villa, right next door to the Blue Lagoon. We got there right before sundown, so we put on our swimsuits (yeah, I know ya dont have to do that at Hedo!) and walked over for a swim. It was magical and incredible the water is both warm and cool, not in large areas as you might imagine, but all in one area you feel swirls of warm and cool anywhere you swim. We were surrounded by beautiful green hills it was such a relaxing swim I cant wait to do it again. Just in case anybody is wondering, skinny-dipping would be difficult there due to the restaurant overlooking it.
We returned to the room and showered and dressed for dinner again, we just had a few steps to go to the Blue Lagoon restaurant its overlooking the Blue Lagoon and very festively but naturally decorated with lights strung over logs. I had the seafood special, which was a combination of shrimp, conch, and fish, accompanied by fresh, lightly grilled local veggies it was delicious. My friend was very tired I was still pumped up from being in such a wonderful setting, but we finished up our dinners (all meals there end with delicious rum cake) and headed back to Moon San.
At Moon San, we went upstairs so my friend could use the phone, and we met the man with the boat the owner of the villa had told us earlier that a snorkeling trip in the morning was included in our rate. We agreed on a time to meet in the morning. We also encountered the house dog we thought he was a stray trying to get in, but later found out he had much more ownership than we did!
In our room we encountered what Ive never encountered in our trips to Hedo strange looking bugs. None of them looked particularly menacing they appeared to be beetles but there was a large star-shaped green bug that my friend heroically slew.
The next morning we went snorkeling (after having some coffee on the balcony with its stunning sea view) - it was amazing to snorkel in such an idyllic setting with nobody but us anywhere near. After our boat trip, we met somebody I didnt think existed a non-aggressive Jamaican vendor. He politely asked if wed like to buy his carved bamboo cups, and we had no money with us, but we came back and purchased some from him later just because he was so mellow (and the cups were cool, and inexpensive). He was singing Elephant Mans pon di river when we came back, with a very nice voice he said it was the #1 song in Jamaica we did hear it every night in the Hedo disco!
Not only is a boat trip included in Moon Sans low rate, but also breakfast, and it was great veggie omelets (I had mentioned to the housekeeper that I was a vegetarian), potatoes, toast, orange juice, and coffee. The villa has four rooms I was told it was the only villa in that area that rented just one room (not the whole villa). Our breakfast companions were a British couple, and a couple consisting of a woman from Portugal who had settled in Jamaica and her Australian friend.
Our guide picked us up after breakfast, and we headed to Reich Falls. I had read in several books that it is a secluded place, but because it was Easter weekend we werent the only ones there. Still, it was very nice, and the water was stunningly clear. We found out that you dont just look at the falls in Jamaica, you climb them. I thought that was just Dunns, but apparently its all of them!
After we finished our very physical interaction with the falls, we bought some jelly coconut from a fruit vendor the juice was very refreshing, and the jelly meat from the coconut was good too. I also purchased a game from a rasta man it looks like a pipe (and Im sure thats how it all started), but it has a wire with a hoop coming up from the bowl, and you blow a Styrofoam ball up and try to catch it in the hoop. The price for this game (plus expert instruction) was about $1.50 U.S.
Now here comes my favorite part on our way to Reach Falls we went by Long Bay Beach, and I thought it was beautiful, almost a cross between Negril and Monterey, California. We spotted a place called Cool Runnings, with a thatch roof, perfectly situated on the beautiful beach. Although we had thought of having lunch at Boston Beach (home of the famous jerk sauce), we changed our mind, and on our way back we had lunch at Cool Runnings.
I loved this place, and want to go back! Its run by a guy named Skanka I think hes Dutch. He was mixing up some fresh pizza dough when we arrived, so it took a while for our pizza, but this is one place where its no problem to wait! I paid $1.10 U.S. for a Heineken and we headed for the beach. Several Heinekens later, I had purchased some things from some laid-back and personable vendors and enjoyed watching the surf. When our pizza did come, it was excellent I ordered a veggie pizza with Jamaican hot sauce it was the best pizza Ive ever had! And it was very inexpensive. On the way out I tipped our very young bartender, and his smile is something I wont forget.
After lunch we headed into the Blue Mountains breathtakingly beautiful. Our guide, Carolyn, was very patient with our many request to stop and photograph beautiful flowers and waterfalls (waterfalls abounded) (and we didnt have to climb them). We stopped at the Old Tavern Coffee Estate (Carolyn had called ahead and made arrangements) and purchased some wonderful Blue Mountain coffee for a shockingly low price more than at the Hi Lo, but this isnt just any Blue Mountain coffee. My boss had asked me to bring back some peaberries, and I was happy to find they had plenty. They also had both medium and dark roast. Mmmmm Im drinking some now.
On the way to Strawberry Hill it was great to see the festivities in the small towns, celebrating the Easter holiday. We saw sound systems set up, and you could really feel the air of excitement.
It was dark when we arrived at Strawberry Hill. We were greeted with a very potent rum punch and a lot of hospitality. Our room, the cheapest one, was beautiful, and had a balcony overlooking the glittering lights of Kingston it was worth every penny of the price. We ate at the restaurant, and it was expensive, but delicious. I had a pasta dish with vegetables and a creamy, spicy sauce a huge portion, exquisitely spiced.
In the morning, I crawled out of the mosquito net (first time Id slept under one!) and made some Blue Mountain coffee and drank it on the balcony. We wandered around the gorgeous grounds of Strawberry Hill and enjoyed the many flowers and plants, and the stunning negative edge pool. Carolyn then joined us for Easter brunch, and we feasted on a visually amazing array of both familiar and unfamiliar foods very delicious.
The brunch was great, and I wouldnt have missed it, but it gave us a late start. We went through Kingston, which was almost deserted on account of Easter Sunday, but still interesting to see. We saw the outskirts of a ghetto area and it was very sad, and made me very angry at the politicians (then again, Im always angry at politicians).
In one of the suburbs of Kingston, I think it was Spanish Town, we stopped for gas. A sound system was set up at the gas station, and blasting some great music. Mostly children were sitting on the picnic benches and listening, and it looked like they were having a great time. I glanced over at the security guards at the front of the gas station, and first I noticed how attractive they were, and then I noticed their large automatic weapons. One of them noticed my sleazy scrutiny and smiled, probably thinking I was admiring his.large.weapon. Yeah, thats it!
Anyway, I loved the drive thru Kingston and the suburbs, and I bought some boiled peanuts from a vendor who walked right up to the van while we were stopped at an intersection. They were very small, but very tasty!
We got such a late start that it was too late by the time we got near Nine Mile, where we were going to visit Bob Marleys birthplace. I was somewhat glad, because thats something Id like to see with Kevin, who shares my love of Bob Marley (and his talented sons, especially Jr. Gong!)
We did drive through Fern Gully, which Ive been curious about ever since I heard Everton Blender sing about it. It was very nice, and Carolyn was once again patient as we snapped some photos.
We were on our way to the Glistening Waters, something a friend had recommended, east of Montego Bay but west of Ocho Rios. It was starting to get dark, and at one point we saw a huge police roadblock going in the other direction. According to Carolyn they were checking taxi licenses, and looking for guns, drugs, etc. So if you ever feel the urge to travel the roads of Jamaica with some of the local herb on your person, theres a good reason not to!
We arrived at Glistening Waters, and at that point Carolyn said goodbye, because she had to pick some folks up in Port Antonio the next day, so her husband Errol would be picking us up after our boat ride. I went into the restroom and changed into a swimsuit since I knew Id feel the urge to swim in the glistening waters. The bartender at Glistening Waters was nice enough to let us store our luggage behind the bar.
We placed our dinner orders, with dinner to be delivered as soon as we got back from the boat trip. The boat trip is half price (I think $7.50 U.S.) with dinner, and the dinner prices were very reasonable. We went to get our boat tickets and were given complimentary glasses of very potent rum punch. Being a hedonist I asked for another, and it was no problem!
By the time the boat left, it was dark, and the lagoon was indeed glistening in the wake of the boat. Apparently microscopic organisms are responsible for the glistening, and they glow whenever disturbed. This is a great place for a hedonist!!! This is another lagoon with brackish waters (cool river meeting warm ocean), but one of the few places in the world with the glowing microorganisms.
The boat stopped so we could swim, and this is something you have to do! When I moved my arms and legs I could see the glowing, and when I raised my arm up out of the water it looked like jewels were dripping from it! I was sad when it was time to get back in the boat, but I still was glowing, even on the boat I would lift up part of my swimsuit and see it glisten. I can only imagine what this would have been like with the enhancement of the local herbs this was one of the few places in JA where nobody tried to sell me any, but a spliff would have been nice!
Glistening Waters is something I really recommend it might be a nice side trip from Hedo. The food is not gourmet, but it was really good, cheap, and the boat trip was wonderful.
When we got back we were served our salads, and then our entrees I had a very tasty vegetarian lasagna with garlic bread the meal was a very good value, as was the wine, and it was a great atmosphere. Ive heard the vegetarian stir fry is good also (but garlic bread always wins).
Errol picked us up and we headed to.Hedo! As much as I enjoyed seeing more of Jamaica, I missed Kevin, and was very excited to be going back to Hedo.
The new road is great, but there isnt much lighting. There was a LOT of traffic due to the holiday. Ever since I arrived, I had been noticing the intense social activity going on all over the island for Easter weekend, and it really hit me on the way from Montego Bay to Hedo people in Jamaica talk to each other, and they hang out on porches together, and do things other than watch TV! I was a bit envious watching the gatherings young and old, they really looked like they were having a good time!
We arrived at Hedo at about 10 pm (maybe later) my friend asked to be moved from the nude section (cheaper when we booked than prude) to the prude section probably not something the front desk is used to no problem mon!! I wasnt sure at that point that I could find her room, so I asked one of the staff to make sure she found it, since it was her first time at Hedo.
Kevin was in the room, waiting for me, and we had a nice reunion! J I checked in with my friend, and she said she was tired and going to bed. Kevin and I then went to the disco and partied they were playing stuff we liked (dancehall and hip hop) so we stayed quite a while and had a great time.
I enjoyed hearing Kevins tales of his bachelor days at Hedo I think he behaved himself, and he met some great folks from the Drunk Phuckers (hope I spelled that right!).
I checked in with my friend in the morning, and she said her room was ok. Breakfast was ok. I went snorkeling with her on the morning boat, and I think we had a good snorkeling trip, but it was hard to tell if she got any pleasure out of it. I went snorkeling with her every day (except for nude catamaran cruise days) and it was strange from the moment we arrived at Hedo, she seemed almost determined not to have a good time. She was upset because some young Jamaican on the staff young enough to be her grandson was flirting with her. And this is bad because???? I kept going over to the prude side and hanging out with her, but it was getting more and more depressing nothing seemed to make her happy at Hedo. We took her to Pastafaris the first night, and although I had told her about slutwear, she was shocked at a woman who wore a really nice gold mesh dress (she looked stunning in it) my friend said very loudly I thought they had a DRESS CODE here, and Kevin and I were embarrassed because I think the very attractive mesh dress woman heard her.
Anyway, I really like and respect my friend, and I have really learned a lesson if any friend in the future expresses an interest in Hedo, I will ask the following questions:
Anyway, I do take some of the responsibility for my friend not liking Hedo, and I feel bad about it. I think some of us who love Hedo get a bit too caught up in it and have a hard time understanding how somebody less hedonistic might react to it. I am guilty as charged. I must say, though, that by the last couple of days, she had mellowed out somewhat and even ventured (in her swimsuit) over to the nude side with me for some jerk chicken! I warned her she might get heckled for having a swimsuit on, and I was relieved and very grateful that nobody harassed her. It was a big step for her to even go over there.
She didnt really like Jamaica either, and that didnt help. Again, I love Jamaica so much and for so many reasons that its hard for me to understand this.
One thing worth noting the dive staff noticed that she was on the snorkeling boat every day, and that she was a strong swimmer and obviously an experienced snorkeler. They went out of their way to show her things on the dive, in a very respectful and helpful manner. I am hoping that this helped her to enjoy at least part of the trip, because she saw some things snorkeling that I missed!
Most days I would get up and have breakfast, then wander down to the snorkeling boat. After snorkeling Id have a beer and snack with my friend on the prude beach, and then on over to where the action is!
Kevin was hanging out more by the pool this year, which is something we started doing last year we hung out on the beach more before, but although we are both very shy (especially Kevin), the folks at Hedo are so warm and welcoming we now feel comfortable hanging out at the pool, and if you sit in one of the lounge chairs on the side by the flower-covered wall, you get a great view of the beach and the ocean. Its also very close to the bar, either via pool access or beach access!
Delroy and Scumba were both in very good moods, and as usual the service was excellent not only at the nude beach bar, but throughout the resort.
Towels were plentiful! Our housekeeper always left them for us, and there were always towels at the dive shack.
Yes, we did see sex in public most notably a couple poolside (in between the pool and hot tub) who had amazing stamina. And the hot tub seemed to be very active and crowded.
For the most part we enjoyed the disco we dont like actual disco music (Saturday Night Fever, etc.), but when that played we just stepped outside and enjoyed the evening. I love the colored lights on the pools, and watching people far braver than me go down the waterslide.
The PJ party was the usual I really enjoy looking at the outfits, but its never my favorite night at the disco for some reason.
I thought the evening entertainment in the dining room this year was very good, and an improvement from the past. We heard some good singers, saw some good dancing, and had fun. Veronicas is way too smoky for us so we usually hang out in the dining room until its time to head for the disco.
The circus on the beach was enjoyable as usual, and we liked the tunes the DJ played.
The art auction really does suck. They had it during dinner one night, and I was unprepared for how obnoxious it was. Now I understand why it is loathed!
We took a side trip to Mayfield Falls we were going to book it through Hedo, but decided to go with Errol instead.
The countryside was beautiful, and Errol did a great job pointing out the trees and flowers to us. He stopped at a cashew tree and showed us the bright red fruit (with the cashew, in a shell, on the bottom!) I now keep my lucky cashew in my purse.
Mayfield Falls was beautiful, but when you hear river walk, dont think its a nice stroll on a path by the river (like I did). You walk IN the river, over slippery rocks, and I did have one nasty fall. I think most people would be ok with climbing up the falls, but I have a messed-up knee and weak ankles. I did enjoy the natural Jacuzzis along the way, and it truly is a natural wonder, with no telephone wires or cars in sight! Our guide helped us along the way, and when we did get to the land portion he pointed out some fascinating plants, such as shy girl, a plant that actually closes up if you touch it!
We planned our trip this year to coincide with Western Consciousness, a big music festival in Sav La Mar, at the Llandilo Cultural Center (a fenced off large field not as fancy as it sounds!) We went last year and it was great, and this year featured Beenie Man, Beres Hammond, Bushman, Spragga Benz, LMS, and many other of our favorites. Errol picked us up from Hedo at about 9 pm and we got there right before LMS started. The music was great, but we were very disappointed when the police tried to shut the show down early (something about a curfew) Bushman and Spragga both had their sets cut short, but by the time Beres and Beenie came on apparently some arrangement had been made with the police.
Aside from my guilt about dragging my friend into a den of iniquity, this was one of my best trips ever, and Kevin had a great time too. I loved getting off the resort and seeing more of Jamaica, and it made me realize theres a lot more to see. And I loved my time at Hedo, too.
Errol asked me why we go to Hedo he was truly curious as an experienced travel guide he has seen it, and he doesnt seem shocked by the nude side (maybe he was just being polite) but he really wondered why we go there, and why so many people go there year after year. I tried to explain about the people, and the atmosphere, but as I was talking I realized that in this world there are Hedo people, and when they discover Hedo theres no turning back!